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This weekend is a long weekend, as there's a bank holiday. The first thing was to look at the water temperature sender - I'd ordered a GM part which was meant to be a replacement. However, it was completely different to the VW part:
I cut off the top of the plastic, which means I can solder the wires if necessary - but I wanted to make sure that the resistance was comparable between the two. I also needed to fit a temperature sender for the DigiDash unit. I found that there were two resistances across the 4 pins, A-B was similar to the resistance of the DigiDash sender, and C-D was similar to the resistance of the GM sender. Maybe I could solve both problems by using this one unit? Firstly, I measured the air temperature resistances: VAG A-B: 840 So the VAG A-B is similar to both of them, although the DigiDash is 100 ohms higher. I then got a hot cup of water, and measured firstly the resistance of the Digi part, then the GM part, then A-B then C-D, then the Digi again, and finally the GM part. The idea is that as the cup cooled, I could average the two readins and this should give a better idea as to how close they were. Digi: 183, 263 == 223 I was reasonably happy that the resistances at the hot end are fairly close, and I'll use this instead of fitting both units:
I then bolted on the throttle body. This was the preferred angle, because it means I can make some brackets for the throttle cable that goes under the inlet manifold:
It also gives me easy access to the wires (which I'll also need to cut and solder, since this has a different connector to the one that I was meant to get). I also moved the pipes so that it's easier to fit the manifold heater pipes (if I need to use it):
Earlier, I bought a fuel filter, so I fitted it. There already is one in the tank, but it's always nice to have one which you can see.
I also fitted some copper washers to the oil temperature sender and pressure switch:
I jacked the car up, and changed the oil filter. While it was up, I had a look at the gearstick linkage - I'd like to bring it through the back of the engine, so the cable will be much shorter, and also be less visible. First of all, this is how it is meant to be (roughly):
And this is the underside of the gearstick mechanism:
In order to bring it out the back, it will have to reversed, so instead of coming out the left, it'll come out the right (as you look at it). This means the box will need to be extended, as the brass-coloured bars have to be this size - and the one at the bottom moves around quite a bit. This is what it should be like in the engine bay:
This is going to be quite complicated - but I'll have a look at the gearstick first. As a bit of a laugh, I got one of my hydraulic rams, and fitted it to see if the gear mechanism can be operated by it.
This part (which selects the even number gears) is capable of being operated by the ram, but the other part is a bit stiff for it. I then used the remainder of the plastic wrapping on the rear electic cables.
Then, the rain came down, so I put the car away. Oh, and the seat.... I'll get that trimmed! |
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